Archives for Best For Garden category
Posted on Mar 26, 2010 under Best For Garden |
we want to fix our backyard and plant some new flowers for sping but i want something that can last till end of summer…and also some plants thats winter friendly..help
for full sun color all summer here are my favorites- Campanula, Echinacea, Crocosmia, DAYLILY!!!, Delphinium, Lupine, Phlox, Stock, Hardy Hibiscus, Turtle Head, Aster. Spring bloomers should be planted at end of summer after the worst of the heat has passed but before it gets too cool, i really like Lenten Rose, Columbine, Jacob’s Ladder, Iris, Primrose, Sea Thrift. All the above are for full to mostly sun, they are also perennials so they will last the winter and come back every spring. for some winter attractiveness i suggest a couple of evergreen shrubs as focal points, try holly (but if you want the pretty red berries in winter you need a male holly and female holly), or Burkwood Daphne which flowers in spring and has attractive variegated foliage all winter, or a cyprus or Yew (go dwarf tho unless you want them big!)
Posted on Mar 23, 2010 under Best For Garden |
I want to know all the garden tidbits you can think of. My expertise is in ornamentals and ground covers, but I am expanding my horizons. I have planted 14 different food crops and need all the advice I can get for beans, corn, cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, watermelons and squash. I am in Ga.
I am also learning about growing from seed. What is the best and cheapest soil mix to use? How often should I water after the seedlings have appeared?
If you have any specific advice or a great website, I would appreciate it.
Thanks
My husband has been gardening for 45 years, and he’s been giving me great tips:
1. You can plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, summer squash/zucchini, cabbage, cucumbers, winter squash, pumpkins, watermelon or eggplant under black plastic. It holds in moisture and heat, and keeps out weeds. Put down black plastic and anchor it down firmly (we bend wires into "U" shapes and stick them into the ground like staples every foot or so). Cut holes in rows in the distance between plants (2-3′ between tomatoes, 1′ between pepper plants or eggplant, 3′ between most of the rest) with a 4′ aisle in between. The holes only need to be big enough to hold the plant, but if you’re planting seeds, make the hole about 4" across. After you’ve finished putting the plants or seeds in the holes, add a cup of Miracle Gro (Miracle Gro for Tomatoes, aka tomato Viagra, for the tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, regular Miracle Gro for the rest). Then we take more of our "staples" and put one at the plastic at each plant so the black plastic won’t come up and cover them–it can burn up the plant and kill it otherwise.
2. I’m trying square foot gardening this year, which seems to be working well. Build a raised bed at least 6" high out of NON-treated lumber (the chemicals will leach out into the vegetables) or concrete blocks, stone, etc. We filled ours with a mixture of peat and mushroom medium. Then I drove nails into the sides every foot, ran string up and down the sides to create 1′ squares, and planted different types of seeds in different squares. We have a 4′ x 8′ bed, which creates 48 squares. Plant the seeds at the distance the seed packets say to thin them to (ex., radishes are to be thinned to 1" apart, so allowing for 1/2" from the sides, you can get 121 radishes per square. You’ll need to water a little more, since they won’t get ground moisture, but the seeds I planted are going nuts.
3. When you plant your tomato plants, make sure you stake them or trellis them. Last year we didn’t, and we had a 10′ bed of nothing but vines where you couldn’t reach the tomatoes. We planted Roma tomatoes on one side, and they had reached all the way across the bed by the end of the summer. We’re just putting metal farm fenceposts every 15 feet or so and stringing string about every 6" up the post. Then when the plant gets tall enough, we’ll wind it through the strings.
4. Read your seed packets. They have good information about what you should do in your zone, the length of germination, the size of the plant and how the seeds should be planted. If you want more in-depth information, buy a farmer’s almanac, which will tell you about everything you need to know about planting. They’re available about anywhere, even Wal-Mart.
Good Luck!
Posted on Mar 20, 2010 under Best For Garden |
I am looking to plant a fairly large sized vegetable garden. I live in Michigan so any info for that state would be prefered.
Hi,
Checkout , www.gardenweb.com , this site will help you out about gardening no matter where you live.
The forums are divided into all kinds of catagories, and the people over there are really kind.
I visit there daily, and have learned oh so much more than I could ever have wanted.
I’ve been learning from there over three years now.
Hope this helps,
Dave
Posted on Mar 18, 2010 under Best For Garden |
Nothing focuses the mind on transforming raw material into an object of beauty, utility, and practicality better than landscaping. The land will make you wait when you do not feel like waiting, and nature, a mysterious consequence of every landscaping design, will do everything you do not want it to do.
Landscaping can do wonders for the surroundings. Many people find it very useful. In fact, in the survey conducted by the Gallup Organization, almost 54% of Americans have said that the top benefit of landscaping is the relaxation and enjoyment it brings for people to enjoy.
In beautifying a big garden, employing the principle of landscaping is extremely important. Some people contend that improving the appearance of a big garden can be a daunting task.
So what is a landscaper to do? It would be best to relax and respect the natural rhythms of the elemental materials found in the garden.
A landscaper should learn the value of patience and flexibility. It is with these attributes that a true landscaper can work out the details of the job.
The landscaper must take into consideration the size of the yard. If it is a big garden, it is best to use the proper number of plants and trees so that the area will not appear dull and empty.
When landscaping a big garden, one should keep in mind that employing the principles of landscaping should not just focus on enhancing its features. The way the trees provide shade is a vital factor.
A big garden usually contains some trees and shrubs even before the landscaping process begins. It is best for a landscaper to examine the area before he starts planning the design.
The proper placing of the plants is a necessity. Since it will be a bigger area, it is best to consider the plants that need more sunlight and those that should not be directly exposed to the sun.
In landscaping, what is important is to emphasize the beauty of the nature. This means that if there are natural rock formations in the area, it is best to put emphasis on them if the rocks seem to be worthy of attention.
All of these things boil down to the fact that the size of the area should be the top consideration of the landscaper. The size of the garden will determine if it needs more trees, plants, or other embellishments. Size really does matter.
Joey Simmons
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/making-beauty-in-your-big-garden-675698.html
Posted on Mar 17, 2010 under Best For Garden |
I love to garden but have not been able to lift even 5 lb. garden soil bags since last season, or enjoy gardening as just pulling up soil with the shovel can put me in pain for days, due to a congenital back defect which is deteriorating. I have a very limited budget. Any suggestions? Thanks!
try bonsai
Posted on Mar 14, 2010 under Best For Garden |
I live in Cornwall, which is warmer than other parts of the UK. I understand that it is possible to keep them outdoors for most of the year, provided the enclosure has suitable shelter, etc? And that they need to come in to hibernate over the winter months. Any advice would be appreciated in order that I can decide whether this is the pet for me!
i would get a russian tortoise
http://www.russiantortoise.org/
GOOD LUCK
Posted on Mar 11, 2010 under Best For Garden |
For most landscapers, the unique beauty and spirit of something made by hand, constructed, and shaped, emphasizes the joy of creating. And even if it means having a small garden to work with, every landscaper knows the value of enjoying their craft and mastering their skills.
Having a small garden to work on does not necessarily mean less details and minor work. What should matter most is to closely assess each detail to come up with the best result.
Working on a small garden is never a problem to most landscape designers. Whether the area is large or small, the sales continue to have a gradual annual growth increase of 8% for the last five years.
In addition, from 1997 to 2002 alone, landscaping sales achieved a growth rate of almost $40 billion. This shows that the landscape designers know how to hone their craft well, regardless of the size of the area they work on.
Generally, when people describe small gardens, they refer to those areas that have straight walls, borders, lines, and/or walks. Then a problem is created because small gardens tend to create an impression of being dull, rigid, and boring. The goal of landscaping should delve into how to make the garden look alive, larger, and more appealing.
The Main Concept
The very core of landscaping a small garden is based on how a landscaper can make the most of the size of the area through plant selection.
With a small garden, having the right kind and size of plants is crucial to the outcome of the whole project.
Size is an important factor because the size of the plants that will be used in the garden should project an image of a bigger space, even if the area is quite small. The color, shape, and texture of the plantings should be coordinated.
It is best to use curves to create a visible flow to the design. Since small gardens tend to have rigid, straight lines, it is best to have curves to open up the garden to reveal its natural beauty. It is also important to create illusions that will give a small garden an effect of being larger.
Considering these, landscaping a small garden will never be a daunting task. As they say, it is all in the details. So whether it is a small or a large garden, landscape designers always take note of the details in the design.
Joey Simmons
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/making-your-small-garden-beautiful-675703.html
Posted on Mar 11, 2010 under Best For Garden |
I’m going to school still and live in an apt. I want to grow my own organic herbs and vegetabesl. I just moved to SLC, Utah and actually plan to move back to Oregon in a year. I’d like to get things started though. What is your advice? I’d like to keep them potted for a while because I won’t have my own house to plant them in the ground at, for years. Thanks 
Below is a great website that has a lot of info. Also, grow bulbs are a godsend!! Hope this helps :O)
You can grow herbs indoors this winter and add that just-picked taste to your meals, even when snow is drifting up against the kitchen window. You don’t even need special lights—herbs fare just fine in a bright window. Here are the best herbs for growing on windowsills and the smart techniques you need to keep them happy and healthy until you can plant outside again.
Basil: Start basil from seeds and place the pots in a south-facing window—it likes lots of sun and warmth.
Bay: A perennial that grows well in containers all year long. Place the pot in an east, or west, facing window, but be sure it does not get crowded—bay needs air circulation to remain healthy.
Chervil: Start chervil seeds in late summer. It grows well in low light but needs 65 to 70 degrees F temperatures to thrive.
Chives: Dig up a clump from your garden at the end of the growing season and pot it up. Leave the pot outside until the leaves die back. In early winter, move the pot to your coolest indoor spot (such as a basement) for a few days, then finally to your brightest window.
Oregano: Your best bet is to start with a tip cutting from an outdoor plant. Place the pot in a south-facing window.
Parsley: You can start this herb from seeds or dig up a clump from your garden at the end of the season. Parsley likes full sun, but will grow slowly in an east, or west, facing window.
Rosemary: Start with a cutting of rosemary, and keep it in moist soilless mix until it roots. It grows best in a south-facing window.
Sage: Take a tip cutting from an outdoor plant to start an indoor sage. It tolerates dry, indoor air well, but it needs the strong sun it will get in a south-facing window.
Tarragon: A dormant period in late fall or early winter is essential for tarragon to grow indoors. Pot up a mature plant from your outdoor garden and leave it outside until the leaves die back. Bring it to your coolest indoor spot for a few days, then place it in a south-facing window for as much sun as possible. Feed well with an organic liquid fertilizer.
Thyme: You can start thyme indoors either by rooting a soft tip cutting or by digging up and potting an outdoor plant. Thyme likes full sun but will grow in an east, or west, facing window.
Rooting a cutting
Many herbs—including oregano, thyme, rosemary, and sage—are best propagated for indoor growing by taking a cutting from an existing outdoor plant. To do it, snip off a 4-inch section, measured back from the tip. Strip off the lower leaves and stick the stem into moist, soilless mix, such as perlite and/or vermiculite. To ensure good humidity, cover with glass or clear plastic, and keep the growing medium-moist.
Transition to indoors
Before the first fall frost (while the weather is still on the mild side), start moving your potted herb plants toward their winter home. Instead of bringing them directly inside, put them in a bright, cool "transitional zone," such as a garage, entryway, or enclosed porch, for a few weeks.
Once they’ve acclimated, move them to an area with lots of sun (south-facing windows are brightest, followed by east or west views). But protect them from heat and dryness. Most herbs prefer daytime temperatures of about 65 to 70 degrees F, although they can withstand climbs into the 70s. It’s especially important that night temperatures drop at least 10 degrees—down into the 50s would be better—to simulate outdoor conditions.
With the exception of basil, they’ll even do well with occasional dips into the 40s. (So turn that thermostat down when you go to bed.) Place them outside on mild days, and give them regular baths to wash off dust.
Water, light, and temperature
Most herbs like to be well watered but don’t like wet feet. That’s why good drainage is important. Water when the top of the container feels dry, or learn to judge the moisture in the soil by the weight of the pot. Add sand or vermiculite to the potting soil to ensure good drainage.
Learn to juggle water, light, and temperature. An herb in a clay pot in a south-facing window will need more water than one in a plastic pot in an east, or west, facing window. If the light is low, keep the temperature low.
Pest prevention
Choose the soil for your indoor herbs carefully. A good commercial potting soil is fine, or for a deluxe mix, blend one part potting soil with one part compost and one part vermiculite, perlite, or sand (or a mixture of all three).
Resist the temptation to use disease- and pest-prone garden soil. And when you pot up garden-grown plants, remove as much of the garden soil as possible without damaging the roots.
Keep such transplants separate from your other houseplants while you’re gradually acclimating them to the indoors. If you see insects on a plant during this "quarantine," leave it outside.
If, despite such defenses, your indoor plants do come under insect attack, help the herbs stay healthy by providing the correct mix of light and temperature, and give them regular baths. A plant weakened by hot, dry indoor conditions is even more susceptible to spider mite, whitefly, or aphid damage than a healthy one.
If you choose to use soap sprays to control these pests, remember that the wet spray must come in contact with the insect to be effective. Spray in the evening (and never in bright sunlight) to prevent rapid drying, and wash off residues the next day (or before eating the leaves). Don’t spray very young seedlings with soap!
Hold back on the water and fertilizer through December, but when the days start getting longer in mid-January, feed them with liquid seaweed or compost. Even potted soil gets compacted as you water it, so cultivate it with a little fork, then top-dress it with compost.
February is usually a great month for indoor plants because of all the bright light. By March, they are starting to get buds, and in April, be sure to put them outside on a warm day. Then it won’t be long before the herbs—and you—are ready to move back to the garden.
Posted on Mar 06, 2010 under Best For Garden |
It needs to fit in my moderate garden & I dont want to pay more than about £50. Anyone know of a good one?
Look in Argos or Early Learning – its a catch 22 really though to be honest, you either end up spending alot or getting one that doesnt last five minutes! – I wouldnt recommend Toys R Us though – I’ve brought so many things from there and have found the quality to be awful – sorry to anyone that loves the place !
Posted on Mar 04, 2010 under Best For Garden |